THE LAST LAP, NOVEMBER 19

Breakfast at the hotel, joined by Joe, Ida and Tully. A great surprise call to the Kipharts (via Peter) from the young headmaster at Krapa school, who was caught in the middle of a political problem, but had spoken very forcefully at our meeting. He had met with the Big Nana (chief), who was above all the people who were giving him problems at the school. When the Big Nana heard what was going on, he immediately said that others had misused his name, that the school at Krapa was clearly intended to be only a middle school. This was terrific news and indicated that things at Krappa might work out fine, in the end. The young headmaster had shown great courage in standing up for what he felt he needed at the school.

We said our goodbyes to the Kwartengs and Tully. Joe said that I was now a brother Kwarteng, and that in fact his brother had the same first name I'd been given by Nana I.

We headed off to Mansakwaa school, a two hour plus drive. Before reaching the school, we encountered a very cute parade of gowned children, with band, marching to their graduation ceremony. We visited the school, but, as it was Saturday, few children were around. Speeches were given, thanks were offered, more was requested, gifts (soccer balls and shirts) were given and the buildings were inspected. A kindergarten is being constructed there, financed by the in laws of Margot Lakonishok. Who had traveled with us to Ghana last year.

I've neglected to mention, except in passing, three important members of our entourage. Freedom and Joseph have driven the vehicles and been enthusiastic helpers at every turn. Jonathan, who like Freedom, is a nephew of Peter, is in charge of workers at all the wells that are built. He, too, was a great help at every turn. All three of them attended all of our dinners and were treated as companions with great respect throughout our trip.

After visiting the school, we drove several more hours to the outskirts of Accra, where we walked around the grounds of the new home that Peter is constructing, with financial help from two of his sons and the Kipharts. He hopes that it will be completed by March or April.

We drove to a restaurant, where Peter had arranged for a very good buffet lunch. We were joined by one of his daughters, Naomi, who is very bashful, by Abigail a cute, zippy young lady who assists Peter's wife, and by assorted other FOPs (friends of Peter).

After lunch, at my request, we drove to the Artists Alliance Gallery, which Carol and I had visited last year and liked. The gallery has a great mix of modern and old art, much of it of quite good quality, and very reasonably priced. Carol and I bought one small painting by an artist we liked a lot. I'd have bought another, and would have been tempted by some of the old cloths, as well, but Carol held the line at one small piece The Kipharts bought a carved wooden pole, called a story stick, and a bowl. It would have been nice to have been able to spend more, less rushed time at the gallery.

We headed to the airport, hearing "You Picked a Fine Time to Leave Me, Lucille" for the 123rd and final time, a fitting end to a fabulous, diverse and enriching trip.